A Brief History of Breitling Watches: A Brand Breakdown of an Aviation Icon
Founded in 1884 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, by Léon Breitling, the Breitling brand was built on a singular obsession: precision timekeeping. From its inception, the company focused on chronographs and timers, instruments designed not just to tell time, but to measure it. This dedication to accuracy quickly made Breitling a favorite among pioneers in sports, science, and industry. However, it was in the burgeoning field of aviation that Breitling would truly find its identity and forge an unbreakable legacy.
As aviation evolved, so did Breitling. In 1915, Léon’s son, Gaston Breitling, introduced one of the first wrist-worn chronographs with a separate push-piece above the crown to control the start, stop, and reset functions. By 1923, this was further refined into the now-standard layout of a start/stop pusher and a second independent pusher for resetting the chronograph. This innovation cemented Breitling’s role as a leader in the field. The brand became the “official supplier to world aviation,” producing onboard chronographs for aircraft cockpits. This relationship culminated in the 1952 creation of the iconic Navitimer, a wrist-worn chronograph featuring a circular slide rule that allowed pilots to perform critical flight calculations. Today, Breitling continues to honor this heritage while expanding its “instruments for professionals” philosophy across air, land, and sea.
Instruments for Professionals: The Breitling Calibre 01 and COSC Certification
Breitling’s modern identity is defined by an unwavering commitment to performance and reliability. A cornerstone of this commitment is the in-house Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01. Introduced in 2009 after years of development, the B01 is a high-performance automatic chronograph movement featuring a column-wheel mechanism, a vertical clutch for smooth engagement, and an impressive 70-hour power reserve. Its creation transformed Breitling into a true manufacture, giving them control over the quality and innovation of their most important timepieces.
Beyond its in-house calibers, Breitling underscores its dedication to precision by ensuring that 100% of its watches are COSC-certified chronometers. The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres is an independent body that tests movements for accuracy and consistency under stringent conditions. This guarantee, which applies to every single watch Breitling produces (both mechanical and quartz), is a testament to the brand’s high standards and its promise to deliver a reliable, professional-grade instrument to every customer.
Below is a list of our top 10 favorite Breitling models:
10. Superocean Automatic 44 (e.g., Ref. A17376211B1A1) – $5,100 msrp
The Superocean Automatic represents the modern, functional core of Breitling’s dive watch collection. Inspired by the “Superocean Slow Motion” from the 1960s, it features a distinctive high-contrast chapter ring and broad, luminous hands and markers for exceptional underwater legibility. With a ceramic bezel insert, 300m of water resistance, and a clean, tool-watch aesthetic, it’s a robust and reliable diver. It’s the perfect entry point into the brand for those who value performance and durability in a straightforward, water-ready package.
9. Top Time B01 (e.g., Ref. AB01762A1L1X1) – $8,000 msrp
Originally introduced in the 1960s to appeal to a younger, style-conscious audience, the Top Time collection brings a sense of fun and retro cool. The modern versions celebrate this heritage, often through collaborations with automotive legends like Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Corvette, and Shelby Cobra. Housing the formidable in-house B01 caliber, these watches combine playful “Zorro” or panda dials with serious watchmaking credentials. The Top Time is for the enthusiast who appreciates a chronograph with a strong personality and a story to tell.
8. Avenger Automatic GMT 44 (e.g., Ref. A32320101B1A1) – $5,400 msrp
The Avenger collection is Breitling at its most bold and robust. Designed for extreme durability and ease of use with gloves, the Avenger features a rugged case, a grippy bezel, and exceptional water resistance. This GMT version adds a practical complication for travelers, allowing the tracking of a second time zone via a red 24-hour hand. It’s a powerful, modern pilot’s watch that sacrifices none of the brand’s professional-grade toughness, making it a favorite for those who need an instrument that can handle any environment.
7. Superocean Heritage ’57 (e.g., Ref. A10370121B1X1) – $5,500 msrp
A standout hit from Breitling’s back catalog, the Superocean Heritage ’57 pays homage to the brand’s first dive watch from 1957. It perfectly captures a laid-back, mid-century surf-culture vibe with its concave bidirectional bezel, oversized indices, and unique arrow-shaped hour hand. While its water resistance is a more modest 100m, this watch is all about style. It’s a testament to the strength of Breitling’s historical designs and has become a modern classic in its own right, beloved for its unique and charismatic appearance.
6. Classic AVI Chronograph 42 (e.g., Ref. A233801A1B1X1) – $6,300 msrp
Inspired by the original 1953 “Co-Pilot” Ref. 765 AVI and the de Havilland Mosquito plane, the Classic AVI collection distills the essence of a vintage pilot’s chronograph. It features a highly legible dial with large Arabic numerals and a robust case with a bidirectional bezel. At a very wearable 42mm, this watch offers a more direct and rugged tool-watch feel compared to the Navitimer. It’s a celebration of Breitling’s history of creating true cockpit instruments, powered by the reliable Breitling Calibre 23.
5. Premier B09 Chronograph 40 (e.g., Ref. AB0930D31L1P1) – $8,750 msrp
The Premier collection showcases Breitling’s elegant, “land-based” side. Inspired by the stylish Breitling watches of the 1940s, the Premier B09 is a masterpiece of design. It features a sophisticated case with sculpted lines, elegant syringe hands, and beautiful dials in colors like the famous “pistachio” green. This model is powered by the manual-wind Calibre B09 (based on the B01), a choice that allows for a slimmer case and appeals to purists who enjoy the daily ritual of winding their watch. It represents the pinnacle of Breitling’s refined, non-aviation watchmaking.
4. Aerospace B70 Orbiter (e.g., Ref. EB70101A1O1E1) – $4,900 msrp
While this site focuses on automatics, no Breitling list is complete without mentioning the iconic Aerospace. This is the ultimate professional pilot’s instrument, featuring a highly accurate, thermo-compensated SuperQuartz™ movement that is far more precise than a standard quartz watch. Its signature feature is the analog-digital display, where all functions (chronograph, timer, alarm, second time zone) are controlled by simply turning, pressing, or pulling the crown. This special edition B70 Orbiter celebrates the 25th anniversary of the first non-stop balloon flight around the world and even contains a piece of the original balloon in the caseback.
3. Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42 (e.g., Ref. AB2010121B1A1) – $5,850 msrp
The more robust, mainstream version of the Heritage line, the Superocean Heritage B20 combines vintage aesthetics with modern dive watch capability. It features the iconic arrow hand and a unidirectional ceramic bezel, but with a more substantial case and 200m water resistance. The real highlight is the Breitling Calibre B20 inside, a manufacture movement developed in collaboration with Tudor (based on the Tudor MT5612). This provides a “weekend-proof” 70-hour power reserve and solidifies the watch’s impressive value proposition. It’s the perfect blend of retro style and modern performance.
2. Chronomat B01 42 (e.g., Ref. UB0134101C1U1) – $9,550 (Steel) to $13,600 (Two-Tone) msrp
Reborn in 2020, the modern Chronomat is a masterful tribute to the legendary 1984 model that redefined the brand. It features the signature rotating bezel with “rider tabs” (which can be swapped to change from a countdown to a count-up bezel) and the instantly recognizable “Rouleaux” integrated bracelet. Powered by the flagship in-house Calibre B01, the Chronomat is a versatile and powerful all-purpose luxury sports watch. It’s tough, stylish, and carries the weight of Breitling’s modern history on its wrist, making it a cornerstone of the entire brand.
1. Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 (e.g., Ref. AB0138211B1A1) – $9,500 msrp
There is no watch more quintessentially Breitling than the Navitimer. For over 70 years, it has been the definitive pilot’s chronograph. Its most famous feature is the intricate circular slide rule bezel, a functional analog flight computer that allows pilots to calculate everything from fuel consumption to rate of descent. The modern version is powered by the premier in-house B01 caliber, visible through a sapphire caseback. The return of the AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) wings logo on recent models connects it directly to its heritage. The Navitimer isn’t just a watch; it’s a piece of aviation history and the undisputed icon of the Breitling brand.
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